A Life on the Waves

If there is one understated yet easily accessible pleasure to be enjoyed in beautiful Boracay, it would have to be paraw sailing.
These colourful little boats are a well loved part of the island experience, and long before the first traveler set weary foot on the gleaming sands of White Beach, they have been an integral part of the scenery. Few tropical islands have such an evocative symbol as the paraw, and most guidebooks and brochures on the subject of Boracay show that classic image of paraws sailing into the golden sunset.

A paraw is a native-style outrigger sailing boat constructed from wood and bamboo, and is comprised of a single hull flanked by two outriggers for stability. They are not, as they are commonly misnamed, a catamaran, a trimaran, or a Hobie Cat.
The design of these sturdy little sailboats can be traced back to those vessels which first carried settlers to the Visayan region from Borneo in the early 1200's, and to this day this particular style of boat can only be seen around a few islands in the Western Visayas.

Prior to the advent of tourism, paraws were commonly used for fishing, or to facilitate travel and trade between islands, but in recent years, enterprising local sailors commonly use them for sightseeing tours around the numerous coves and beauty spots, and many visitors much prefer this quiet, wind-driven and environmentally friendly method of transportation as an alternative to the noisy banca boat rides. They are enormous fun to sail and due to the absence of a deep keel, have the advantage of being able to moor right on the shoreline - perfect for beach hopping.
The yearly paraw regatta, held during high season, is a colourful and lively spectacle, and while cash prizes are on offer, many compete for the sheer thrill and enjoyment of the race itself.





A paraw ride can be a calm and tranquil experience, enjoyed with a bottle of wine at sunset, a means to visit deserted beaches and snorkel sites, or, during windy weather, an exhilarating (if rather wet) way to ride the waves at high speed. A crew of two is usual (a skipper and a balancer) and most paraws can accomodate 4 - 6 passengers comfortably.

The large triangular sails are often used to showcase local artwork. Unique tribal designs and a variety of eyecatching murals can be seen adorning these photogenic floating canvasses. Sadly (and to the abject horror of many tourists and Boracay purists) corporate logos have also made their way onto the sails, but thankfully many paraw owners still insist on keeping the individuality of their boats intact, and refuse to display such advertisements.

It is easy to see from the sunny and carefree disposition of most paraw skippers just how much they enjoy their work. Take the friendly and upbeat Captain Joey, for example, skipper of "Red Pirates", one of Boracay's most well known sailing boats, and owner of the eclectic Pirates Pub.
"Sailing is so relaxing. You don't have to think - you just get back to nature. It's a pure and positive energy" he enthuses. "When you are sailing, it's like a therapy". And he should know. Joey has been cruising these waters for twenty years and knows all the island's best kept secrets, including remote caves and snorkel sites.

Many foreigners have also been bitten by the paraw sailing bug, and British-born artist David Parker recalls, "I spent a long time sitting on Boracay's white sand watching the majestic outrigger sailing boats before actually sailing on one. Once initiated, it became a healthy habit, and my girlfriend and I bought a class A racing paraw, the "Red Rooster". The boat was the Ferarri of the island, painted bright yellow, and was our daily and nightly transport to the clubs and bars along the beachfront."

Dave's enthusiasm for paraw sailing and genuine affection for these unusual little boats is obvious. He continues, "The foreigners who had paraws were not lazy Sunday sailors. They raced - even if there was no competition. It was purely the need for speed. Paraws are not slow (Red Rooster was clocked doing more than twenty-two knots), but they are extremely sensitive. I was once told by a yachtsman who was on his second solo circumnavigation of the globe and had stopped off in Boracay that, "If you can sail one of these, you can sail anything!"
If you like freedom, flying, driving in open-topped sportscars or riding a classic motorcycle on a beautiful summers day, do not miss out on sailing a paraw in Boracay."
With imaginative names such as "Wind Song", "Frankie Baby", "Sugar Brown Reggae", "Satisfaction" and "Red Pirates", many of these boats are instantly recognisable, and Boracay regulars often have their own personal favourite paraw - and crew.

Here's hoping that these charming little boats (and the cheerful, free-spirited guys who sail them) remain a part of Boracay life for many years to come - for island life surely wouldn't be the same without them.


To book a paraw ride with Captain Joey and the Red Pirates crew, call 036 288 5767, or text 0915 2030790.
email redpiratesboracay@hotmail.com

Seduction Island

Over the last few years, Boracay has undoubtedly earned its reputation as one of the top tourist destinations in the Philippines, and while the lively party scene draws the crowds during those balmy summer months, in low season this multi-faceted island still has plenty to offer those who are seeking a more relaxed and peaceful vacation.

The quiet months between June and November are the ideal time to enjoy a romantic break with someone special, and few could fail to be charmed by the delights of this idyllic island retreat.
While countless travelers have met and fallen in love under the warm caress of the Boracay sun, many others choose the island for their wedding or honeymoon, or a luxury vacation for two.
Compared with the sometimes hectic high season, the atmosphere at this time of year is significantly more restful, and therefore appealing to couples who prefer a more laid back scene.

Boracay has a proliferation of beachfront hotels and resorts, but some of the most romantic hideaways are situated a little away from the shoreline. Hidden gems such as Boracay Hills (nestled on the hillside towards the southern end of the island) provide a peaceful haven where you and your significant other can relax and unwind in beautifully landscaped grounds, complete with swimming pool and a friendly and welcoming atmosphere.

And the highly acclaimed Asya Resort, which despite being located close to central White Beach, offers an oasis of calm within it's walls, and an impressive list of amenities for it's guests to enjoy, including an excellent in house restaurant, Travesia.

At Fridays Resort, one of the oldest and most reputable of Boracay's establishments, luxury accommodation blends effortlessly with attractive island style architecture. Nothing is spared in terms of facilities, including a world class restaurant to satisfy your every culinary desire, while the location at the far northern end of the beach guarantees privacy and seclusion.

But don't despair that a romantic holiday may be beyond your budget as, contrary to popular belief, Boracay need not be overly expensive. Cosy hideaways such as Dave's Straw Hat Inn, Island Jewel and Ocean Breeze Inn offer an inimitable warmth and hospitality without costing an arm and a leg, proving that you need not spend a fortune to enjoy a memorable vacation.

Even during the quiet season you'll find no shortage of activities to occupy your time, and aside from exhilarating watersports such as kiteboarding and windsurfing, paraw sailing is a popular way for couples to enjoy an afternoon sightseeing tour, or scenic sunset cruise. Pack a hamper of picnic food such as deli-style sandwiches, fruit and cakes (these can be arranged at Real Coffee, Heidiland or Crafts Deli) and ask your boatmen to take you to a quiet and secluded cove for the afternoon.

While many visitors are content simply to relax on the beach, others will opt to sooth their senses at one of the island's excellent health spas, including Tirta, Bella Isa and Mandala Spa (which also offers accommodation in perhaps the most tranquil setting of all).

With seduction in mind, what could be more conducive to love than swaying coconut trees, azure water and soft sugar white sand? A candle-lit meal and a bottle of wine! And while Boracay's dining options are many and varied, some certainly exude a more romantic ambiance than others.
Put some spice in to your life with the exotic Indian cuisine at True Food restaurant, located near boat station 2. Dinner a deux can be enjoyed whilst reclining on the comfy throw pillows, with subdued lighting and gentle background music completing the scene. You'll have a hard time leaving!

Another well kept secret is the Dos Mestizos tapas restaurant. Despite being just a stone's throw from the busy White Beach (located behind the Tourist Center), this cosy eatery has the understated atmosphere of a Spanish taverna, and the warm decor, delicious food and attentive service are an irresistible allure.

Cyma Restaurant, in a quiet corner of the mall, is another small but charming eatery, and the mouthwatering aromas from the open kitchen will entice you to indulge in their sumptuous Greek specialities. This restaurant is especially popular with couples, as many of the dishes seem to be designed with sharing in mind.

And if you have a passion for seafood , feast to your heart's content on the freshest catch of the day, grilled to perfection at one of Boracay's oldest and best loved establishments, DeParis Restaurant, which can be found right on the beachfront, close to boat station 2. Get ready to dig in and share a plate of shellfish, prawns, lobster and crab for the ultimate beach dining experience.

And as the sun goes down, take a stroll to the most peaceful part of White Beach - Angol, south of boat station 3, where the pace of life is slower and the ambiance laid back and relaxing. Enjoy an exotic cocktail on the beach at the chilled-out Red Pirates Pub, where the Pina Coladas and Mojitos are rumoured to be the best on the island, and during happy hour (4-7 pm) you'll get two for the price of one!.

Take a tip from regular visitors to Boracay, many of whom claim that the peaceful low season is their favourite time to enjoy the alternative side of this ever changing island. Bring your loved one to Boracay, and create those special memories which last forever.

Published: Philippinewide Magazine (August 2007)

and http://www.boracay-budgettravel-tips.com/

Our Angol

Despite the common concensus that Boracay Island is now overcrowded and overdeveloped, there is still a little corner of this "Paradise Island" which has managed to retain the laid-back charm of earlier years.
While the central stretch of White Beach is cluttered with hotels (of varying degrees of ugliness), shops, vendors, restaurants and hoards of tourists, the southern part of White Beach (known as Angol) remains a quiet haven for those who wish to get away from the hustle and bustle, as well as being popular with the backpacking and travelling community.

As you stroll past the old boat station 3 (which was for many years the first stop-off point for banca boats arriving on White Beach) it is almost like discovering another island. Those who haven't explored this far south are often surprised that the area is still so tranquil, without the pounding music and packs of vendors which characterise the main stretch of the beach.

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The attraction of this area, quite simply, is the peace and quiet. While developers are keen to build all over every inch of this island retreat, Angol has so far managed to survive the onslaught, and cosy inns still nestle behind the coconut trees - instead of high rise hotels! While some tourists are drawn to the crowds at boat station 2, others undoubtedly veer towards less populated places such as this, where you can enjoy plenty of beach space, an uninterrupted swim, or a relaxing swing in the hammock without fear of disturbance. Vendors are few and far between, and the chilled-out ambiance of the native-style bars and restaurants is unique to Angol alone.

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Accomodation in Angol is generally more reasonably priced than the rest of White Beach, and budget travellers can find a variety of little guest houses to choose from. Low priced rooms can be found at places such as Austrian Pension, Dave's Straw Hat Inn, Mabini's, Little Corner of Italy, Melinda's Garden and Orchids Resort.

Pay just a little more and you can enjoy the hospitality of Turtle Inn, Blue Mango, Tree House Resort, Marzon Resort, Arwana, Blue Coral, Villa Camilla and Angol Point Resort.
And for a more luxurious stay, Surfide Resort, 3-5-7 Resort, Boracay Ocean Club and Lorenzo South can cater to your needs while still charging much less than other similar resorts at the far end of the island.

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.As well as being a quiet spot for romantic couples and honeymooners, it is no surprise that both Mandala Spa and Surfside's Yasuragi Spa are located on this tranquil stretch of the beach, and if your budget won't stretch to a luxurious treatment, massages are available right on the beach, from qualified blind masseurs offering Swedish, Shiatsu and Accupressure at low prices.

Meals can be enjoyed at cosy eateries such as the Italian owned Pizza da Mario, Blue Mango Inn, Kurt's Bavarian restaurant, Surfside (for Japanese cuisine), Cocoloco (Filipino and international dishes) , Sundown Restaurant (European) and Arwana Coffee Shop, and nightlife is of the laid back variety, mostly involving cold San Miguel beer and friendly conversation at Kurt's, Bubbles Bar, Cocoloco or Red Pirates.

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So next time you hear someone comment that Boracay is overcrowded and overpriced, you'll know different. If you are in search of that elusive Boracay vibe without the mayhem and crowds, Angol could be the place for you. But don't tell everyone!